Day 27 Thu 08/8 - Last Day In Another Mad City of Kolkata

Today spend : Rs 430    Total spend :Rs 25644

Today is my last day here in India, in another mad city of Kolkata, the same place where we started on the 13th July and will be ending on the 9th Aug,almost close to a month. Being  a first time visitor to India,it really open up my eyes as how low a human can live vs those wealthy rich living in high class bungalows. For the poor and homeless, sky is their roof and with a matt or a piece of cloth for them to sleep in just about anywhere they feel comfortable. Nobody seems to bother and i think the authorities also had no solution to put a stop to it, as there are just too many poor peoples on the street doing the same thing, throwing rubbish, urine everywhere. So you hardly see any toilets or rubbish bins on the street. I slept almost the whole day in the room or a more appropriate term is a prison cell, I went out only for my lunch and dinner. Chee has to cycle to find a bike box few km away from our stay,luckily for him he has contacted the bike shop owner to reserve one, but for a fee of Rs 500 including packing, and took a taxi to bring back to the hotel. With everything done and settled, we are ready to return happily to our home tomorrow.

Day 25/26 Tue/Wed 06/07 Aug - New Delhi 26 hr Train to Kolkata

Two days spend :Rs 735   Total spend :  Rs 25214

It was raining when we woke up this morning. Our train to Kolkata is scheduled at 1.00pm,so we have plenty of time to pack up. While waiting for the rain to stop,I went down the street looking for foods, Chee prefer to skip the morning breakfast. The once busy Pahar Ganj was reduced to a water-logged street,as the shopkeepers were busy to sweep away the rain water from entering their shops,a result of lack of proper drainage system.The rain stopped as i just about to finish eating, without any delay i quickly rush back to guesthouse, to go to the train station before the rain starts again. With Chee's bike, we no need the service of tuk-tuk or taxi, I just placed my 2 big bags on top of Chee's rack, and with me holding to it , we push the bike for a distance of 200m until the entrance, from here we need the service of porter to carry to the platform no. 8 while Chee had to check in his bike as luggage. I went for another round of food outside the train station for a Chiken Briyani Rs 160 . The train arrived at 12.30pm and we quickly rush to find our 2 AC seat. With our luggage safely tucked under the seat, then you can relax a little while waiting for the train to take off. Sharing the same room is a friendly Indian muslim brother, we chatted a bit, and he told me that " Malaysia is a very beautiful country" then I asked " Why dun you go and holiday there?" He smiled at me with this answer " My shoulder is very heavy, I can't go oversea holiday,I need to feed more than 10 people"
The train is quite comfortable with folderable bed,bed sheet,tower,and pillow, the best is the many rounds of foods and drinks served. The only unforeseen setback is the 10 hr delay due to a fallen power line and the train had to use alternative route to reach Kolkata. We arrived Kolkata almost 4 pm. While i went walking to look for accommodation,and Chee to guard the luggage.Most of the budget guesthouse or lodge not cater for foreigners, while some hotels were out to slaughter us with Rs 1400- 2000. Just out of luck, i went trying to check out one more guesthouse while pushing our stuffs on the way to one expensive hotel, surprisingly, its ok with a reasonable price of Rs 500. We happily pay for two nights and save ourselves Rs 900 each. Finally happy to reach this stage where we will board our Airasia X flight home on the 9th Aug.

Day 24 Mon 05/8 - Witness the Madness of Pahar Ganj Main Bazaar in New Delhi

Today spend : Rs 815    Total spend : Rs 24479

Today we shifted our oven room to another room which is facing the road with a window and a narrow common balcony ,located 2 storey higher paying extra Rs 50 for a total of Rs 650. The old room was just too hot without any ventilation,even with the ceiling fan at full blast,you still find yourself sweating lying on the warm bed,and the noise generated by the fan, is just like a nightmare. When you stay in the Pahar ganj main bazaar, you just stuck in the crowds here witnessing what India have to offer to the tourists - Madness !!!  It is just difficult for me to describe in words nor taking a picture to show to the world. Best is to come and experience with your own eyes and feel the sensation. The thought of going for a sightseeing tour around Delhi just vanished in the busy street of Pahar Ganj, frankly speaking, till to date I still don't know what are the attractions in Delhi,or where the tourists will visit. Tomorrow will leave Delhi on a long distance train to Kolkata. Happy as the homecoming date is drawing nearer and nearer.

Day 23 Sun 04/8 - Connecting Bus 13 hr Fr Manali to New Delhi

Today spend : Rs 3230       Total spend : Rs 23664

This time around we were happy to have a comfortable sleeper seat powered by Volvo engine on our final overnight bus journey to New Delhi. There was a minor hiccup when we loaded our stuffs to the bus, the helper just help to arrange the luggage wanted to collect Rs 10  for every bags,whereas we were told when we booked our tickets in Leh,the officer told us that the fee Rs 1200 is all included,and reminded us not to pay anymore money to anyone.I was angry not because of that little money i want to save, it was because of his attitude of demanding.I don't mind if he wants to earn a living by helping the passengers and collect a commission,i would be more than willing to pay, at last we only paid him Rs 50 to settle peacefully.Truly Incredible India!! The bus left at 5.30pm with only 70% full and pick up a few along the way. For the first time we enjoy the comfort of a luxury Volvo bus on a "good" narrow tarmac road and catch some rest on the sleeper inclined seat. The skillful driver was speeding away as we could feel the sudden emergency brake at times and the swinging of the bus from left and right. Nobody wanted to raise a complaint,maybe everyone were just too tired and wanted to finish the journey fast. The bus make a dinner stop in Pandoh where i ordered the Veg Chowmein Rs 70 and a Chai Rs 20. Before reaching Delhi, with another quick stop for a hot tea Rs 25. The ordeal of my longest bus ride finally ended at Delhi bus station at 7.30am. With the help of one kind local gentleman who traveled with us,we hired a van Rs 200 to fetch us to the main bazaar in Paharganj near the train station.We checkout a few guesthouses and decided The Traveller's Inn is our choice for Rs 600 with Wifi and attached bathroom. The feeling is good finally able to have a refreshing shower and a proper bed to rest, while Chee with added responsibility to check out the train ticket to Kolkata at the train station . Thanks Chee who came back a good news and booked a non-stop train ticket to Kolkata on the 6th Aug for Rs 2460. That means we will stay in Delhi for 2 nights and another 2 nights in Kolkata.

Main Bazaar Road in Pahar Ganj

Main Bazaar Road in Pahar Ganj

We stay in Traveler's guesthouse Rs 600

New Delhi Train Station just 150m from our stay

Roadside stall of Omelet with bread Rs 25

Day 22 Sat 03/8 - Bus Journey Continues for another 8 hr fr Keylong to Manali

Today spend : Rs 265   Total spend : Rs 20434

After breakfast the bus took off at 7.20 am to continue the journey to Manali where there will be a steep climb to the top of Rothang La at almost 4000m. Today the weather was good and it was so different when we first cranked up here  earlier, there was nothing and it was so damn cold,I didn't even stop and just snapped a picture while on the bike.And today it was like a market here where hot drinks stall on the jeep and horse riding to cash on the tourists. The bus took another long stop in Marhi where paragliders took to the sky on a perfect clear sky.The only Dhaba (restaurant) left in Marhi is the Gov. run restaurant where i had a chapati and a chai for Rs 35, the rest of the shops were torn down for whatever reason i don't know.The bus arrived at Manali at 3.30pm where we will have to wait until 5.30pm to connect another HPTDC bus to New Delhi.We took turn to take our dinner near the bus stand while Chee also took the opportunity to check out the train schedule to Kolkata.

Paragliding in Marhi

Marhi

Marhi

Paragliding

Marhi

Paragliding

Tibetan prayer flag 

Marhi

Marhi

Stupa in Marhi

Abandoned shops in Marhi

Bus Station in Manali

Bus Station in Manali

Bus Station in Manali

Booking counter

Day 21 Fri 02/8 - Rough 14 hr Bus Journey fr Leh to Keylon

Today spend : Rs 200    Total spend : Rs 20169

The place where the HPTDC bus is supposed to wait is about 200m from our guesthouse.It took us two trips to carry our luggage  to the waiting bus,as i need to use Chee's bike as a carrier to my 2 large bags. The bus already waiting when we 1st arrived at 4.30am,it makes the loading of our luggage much easier where most of the passengers still yet to arrive. Chee's bike as usual had to be at the roof top while my bike having dismantled and packed into bike bag was put together with other bags at the back of luggage compartment. Once the bus was full with 99.9% foreigners, the bus took off sharp at 5am. As the bus journey is the same as we came,the excitement somewhat is not there for two of us, but others were busy clicking their cameras on the gorgeous mountain scenery, the bus makes many stops at the mountain peaks and towns to entertain the tourists.The bus destination is Manali, but was make to stop over night in Keylong with stay in parachute tents,dinner and breakfast provided. For those who can't stand to stay in the tents, opted to pay the pricey rooms of the Himachal Hotel. After the simple dinner of typical veg rice with dahl ( again no meat),with a sticky body ( no bath),surprising I slept so soundly,probably due to the long tiring bus journey.Mind you,the journey isn't finish yet. Tomorrow the bus ride will resume at 7am.

Note: Sorry for no pictures on this post

Day 20 Thu 01/8  - We are Leaving Leh Tomorrow with the HPTDC Bus
Today spend : Rs 3760    Total spend : Rs 19949

Today is our last day here in Leh after spending close to a week in this High Himalayan  Buddhist city,with lots of Tibetan cultures like Tibetan arts,foods,handicrafts etc. The problem we faced on these past one week is the very frequent intermittent power failures,and that affect the internet connection. But the locals were quick to correct our perception that the main reason is not the lack of power supply,but in fact too much of it that the old power cables were not able to withstand,that causes the overloading. Another setback is the lack of good foods here,I am really bored of the bread and the rice here as compared to our Malaysian foods. One thing i found out is better than Malaysia is the Tandoori Chicken here, is tastier and the meat is much tender as compared to our hang-up Tandoori, the price is quite reasonable Rs 160 for half chicken ( the actual size of it looks like a quarter with the wing missing). Tonight we invited our fellow cyclist from Poland Piotr Nogal who stayed the same guesthouse with us to join us for a home cook Malaysian dinner at the roof top, as i need to clear my foods. I have with me : a can of black bean fish 豆士魚,salted fish in oil,basmati rice and from Chee 2 packets of mushroom soup.To make it more delicious,we also bought 5 eggs,Onions,courier flower and green big chilli from the market.We had a great time to enjoy our best home cook dinner before we say good night as we need to sleep early as the bus is leaving at 5 am tomorrow morning.

My recumbent packed into the bike bag

Indian Tandoori half Chicken, better than Malaysia Rs 150

Fellow cyclist we met in Leh , Nogal Piotr from Poland

Day 19 Wed 31/7 - Painful Decision But I am Going Home

Today Spend: Rs 1559    Total spend : Rs 16189

Although the Ali bike shop in Leh have another 20" toy rim, but knowing the tendency of twisted quality of such rim, i have lost the confidence of fitting such rim for my remaining journey from Leh to Srinagar,although the road condition is much better according to Chee. So my latest plan is to follow him back to Malaysia on the 9th of Aug. many thanks to Dave Ern for helping me to change my Airasia X flight with extra cost of Rm 409. We also book  the HPDC government bus leaving 5 am on 2nd Aug from Leh to Manali ( Rs2200) with an overnight stay in Keylong ,dinner and breakfast inclusive, then continue the journey to Manali the next morning, expected to arrive Manali at 3 pm , in time to connect the next HPDC Bus ( Rs 1220) to New Delhi and expected to arrive 7-8 am on the 4th. We are not sure yet as to take a train to Kolkata or a flight from Delhi . Meantime I had dismantled my bike and packed it in a bike bag, and bought another big "North face" bag for Rs 800 to put my other panniers. So far this is the plan until Delhi.

Day 18 Tue 30/7 - Hell Ride fr Leh to Khardung La and Back with a Twisted Rim

Today dist : 63.7 km         Temp 15-35c  Warm morning and Hot afternoon
Ride time: 6 hr 33 min
Ave speed : 9.7 kmh  Max : 55.5 kmh
Ave climb: 4 %  Max: 15 %
Trip alti : 969 m    Max: 5138 m
Today spend : Rs 470     Total spend : Rs 14630

We started very early at 5.40am without any breakfast cos all shops still remains close at this early hour, but I have in my bag 2 pcs of sneeker chocolate bars and 2 roll of biscuits. The climb started immediately thru' the village,hopping to see whether i can have any breakfast along the village,but no luck and climbing with an empty stomach,somewhat affected my performance,but for Chee,he is not that desperate having breakfast before ride. Chee was always in front of me while i am struggling to keep sight of him.At times, he waited for me if i am falling too far behind. Even we were only half loaded,keeping most of our stuffs in the Ree-Yul guesthouse,especially the tent,stove and pot,taking only the necessary clothing tools as we plan  to stay a night in either North Pullu or Nubra valley after the Khardung La Pass.But still we were laboring up the steep climbs like fully loaded, we were stopping frequently to catch breadth as the air is getting very thin with the gain in altitude,both of us were coughing very often, average speed was down to the lowest of 3.5- 4.5 kmh .I was very cautious with my new toy 20" rim, but so far it seems pretty ok on the climb,the real test i guess will be on the descent. Along the way,we did not see any other cyclists riding up,but saw many mtbs were loaded on the jeeps,as most people only wanted the thrill of a downhill ride from the top. We were being waved,camera-ed from the passing vehicles, most probably being laughed at seeing these 2 crazy guys doing the most crazy thing on earth,whats more with my recumbent, most likely being seen such funny bike for the 1st time. At South Pullu, after 25 km , we were feeling very exhausted and the cloudless sunburn, and also the start of the 16 km bad gravel road, we took the better way of getting a lift from a cement truck to the top without any charge, while sitting at the back of the open truck, looking at how the truck engine laboring up the steep terrain, we had no regret that we made the wise decision. It needed 2 solid hours even for the truck to arrive at the top, we wanted to pay some money to the driver and co-driver, but were not successful as they drove away after unloaded our bikes. We had the best hot maggi mee soup and chai in the cafe, touted as the highest cafeteria in the world at 18350 ft. There were many mountain bikes,vans and jeeps, It's like a pesta up there with many people posting pictures at the stone marker of the World Highest Motorable Road at 5602m or 18380ft, but my cyclometer only showing 5138m, so forgive me as i am not very sure which is correct. After spending and rested for about 1 hour and pictures taken, we started  the descent back to Leh, abandoning the earlier plan for staying in the Nubra Valley. My toy rim was put to real test on the bad gravel road down to South Pullu, with flying colors,that gave me added confidence on the good tarmac road to Leh, as i overtook some mtbs and reached the max speed of 55.5 kmh. Then the tragic
stuck rather unexpectedly, as i was nearing Leh ,I fell on a sandy bend, with no injury to myself but the toy rim was twisted with the road impact, self cursing and annoyed,i disconnected the front brake to finish the ride back to the Ree-Yul guesthouse at 6pm to end a dramatic hell ride but wholesomely satisfied what i set out to achieve on this tour.

The new rim failed the test after Khardung La